Knitting for women Knitting Jackets Bavarian-style cable jacket

Bavarian-style cable jacket

Bavarian-style cable jacket



Alpine jacket with peplum traditional knit lace. Highlight: the cable pattern creates a lovely three dimensional effect. Real pros will add a knit cord...

Size: 36/38.

Materials: Baruffa "Aran" (100% pure wool, approx. 68 m/50 g): 950 g in Natural, col 301; size 4.5 and 5 mm Addi needles; size 4.5 mm circular needle, 100 cm/40" long; size 5 mm crochet hook; cable needle (cn); 5 golden bells to be used as buttons.

Stockinette: K on RS, p on WS.

Reverse Stockinette: P on RS, k on WS.

Garter st: K every row. 

Ridge pattern: 8 rows in rev Stockinette, 6 rows in Stockinette; rep from * throughout.

Rib pattern: K2, p2

Cable pattern A: Work according to chart A. Work RS rows from right to left and work WS rows from left to right. Work 12 pat sts once. Work rows 1 - 20 throughout.

Cable pattern B: Work according to chart B. Work RS rows from right to left. On all WS rows not shown on chart, work sts as they appear. Work 10 pat sts once. Work rows 1 - 6 throughout.

Lace pattern: Work according to chart C. Work RS rows from right to left. On all WS rows not shown on chart, work sts as they appear. Beg chart pat with 2 sts before first arrow, work 12 sts between arrows for pat repeat, and end with 3 sts after 2nd arrow. Repeat rows 1 - 24 throughout.

Bobble: Work up to stitch in which bobble is made. Leave st on LH needle. Insert crochet hook into st and ch 3, then work 4 dc, leaving last loop of each on hook; wrap yarn over hook and draw through all loops on hook. Insert crochet hook through back loop of st, work 1 sl st, then sl st to RH needle.

Full-fashion decreases: At beg of RS row, selvedge st, k1, SKP (sl1 kwise, k1, psso). At end of RS row, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k1, selvedge st.

Tension: 16 sts and 24 rows = 10 x 10 cm/4" x 4" in lace pat on size 5 mm needles; 16 sts and 22 rows = 10 x 10 cm/4" x 4" in ridge pat on size 5 mm needles; 28 sts of cable band = 10 cm/4" wide.

Back: With size 5 mm needles, cast on 65 sts. Work in lace pat according to chart C for 12 rows, working pat rep 5 times across row. Shape sides: Inc 1 st at beg and end of next RS row, then every foll 6th row 5 times = 77 sts. Cont in pat until back measures 20 cm/8" = 48 rows from cast-on.

Shape armholes: Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then 1 st at beg of next 6 rows = 61 sts. Cont in pat until armhole measures 20 cm/8" = 48 rows from beg. Bind off all sts.

Left Front: With size 5 mm needles, cast on 22 sts and work in lace pat according to chart C as foll: Beg chart pat with 2 sts before first arrow, work 12 sts between arrows for pat repeat once, then work from sts 1 to 7 of pat rep, selvedge st. Cont in lace pat and work side and armhole shaping at right edge same as for back = 20 sts. At same time, when left front measures 15 cm/6" = 36 rows from cast-on, shape front neck edge as foll: Working full-fashion dec, dec 1 st at end of next RS row, then alternately every 4th and 2nd row 14 times, then every foll 4th row 3 times. Cont in pat until armhole measures 20 cm/8" = 48 rows from beg. Bind off remaining 2 sts.

Right Front: Work same as for left front, reversing all shaping and pattern placement.

Left cable band: With size 5 mm needles, cast on 23 sts. Work in garter st for 4 rows and inc 5 sts evenly across last WS row of garter st = 28 sts. Next, position sts as foll: Selvedge st, work 10 sts in cable pat B, 12 sts in cable pat A, 2 sts in rev Stockinette, 2 sts in Stockinette, selvedge st. Work in pat as established until band measures 60 cm/23 3/4" from cast-on. Bind off all sts and k2tog 5 times while binding off.

Right cable band: Work same as left cable band and position sts as foll: Selvedge st, work 2 sts in Stockinette, 2 sts in rev Stockinette, 12 sts in cable pat A, 10 sts in cable pat B, selvedge st.

Sleeves: With size 4.5 mm needles, cast on 42 sts. Next WS row: Selvedge st, p1, * k2, p2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2, p1, selvedge st. Work in rib pat as established until sleeve measures 7 cm/2 3/4" = 17 rows from cast-on. Dec 1 st on last WS row of rib pat = 41 sts. Change to size 5 mm needles and work in lace pat according to chart C for 4 rows, working pat rep 3 times across row.

Shape sleeve: Inc 1 st at beg and end of next RS row, then every foll 10th row 6 times = 55 sts. Note that squares outlined in grey on chart indicate where bobbles are made. Cont in pat until sleeve measures 40 cm/15 3/4" = 96 rows from rib pat. Shape sleeve cap: Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Working full-fashion decs, dec 1 st at beg and end of next 18 RS rows = 9 sts. Bind off remaining 9 sts on next RS row.

Peplum: Cast on 32 sts and work in ridge pat for 120 cm/47". Beg and end ridge pat with 8 rows in rev Stockinette

Finishing: Pin pieces to measurements and block with damp towels. Sew left cable band to left front edge and sew right cable band to right front edge, leaving bottom 20 cm/8" of band unsewn. Sew side and shoulder seams. Sew short edges of peplum to cable bands. Sew top edge of peplum to cast-on edge of fronts and back, sewing across rev Stockinette sections only and bringing Stockinette sections into a pleat. With circular needle, pick up and k 200 sts along right front, back neck and left front edge. Work in Stockinette for 4 rows.

Next WS (tuck) row: * Insert RH needle in purl bump, 4 rows below next st on LH needle, and place picked-up purl bump on LH needle; p2tog (picked-up purl bump and first st on LH needle). Rep from * to end of row. Next, work in Stockinette for 2 rows.

Next RS (buttonhole) row: Work 6 sts, * yo, k2tog, work 11 sts; rep from * 3 times, yo, k2tog, work to end. On foll WS row, purl all yos.

Next RS row: Work in Stockinette. Next WS row: Work tuck row as before.

Next RS row: Bind off all sts. Sew sleeve seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew on bells. If desired, use spool knitter to make 2 l-cords, each approx. 1.50 m/ 60" long. Thread l-cords through cables on left and right front as shown in photo. Secure ends of l-cords on wrong side.