Calisto Vest

Calisto Vest



The versatility of tunisian crochet is dramatically showcased in the elegant tunisian puff-stitch pattern that borders the tunisian knit-stitch body of this figure-flattering cutaway vest.

FINISHED SIZES: Instructions given fit size small; changes for medium, large, X-large, 2X-large and 3X-large are in [ ].

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust: 32 inches (small) [36 inches (medium), 40 inches (large), 44 inches (X-large), 48 inches (2X-large), 52 inches (3X-large)]

MATERIALS: Madelinetosh Tosh DK light (DK) weight superwash merino wool yarn (31/4oz/225 yds/92g per skein): 3 [4, 4, 5, 5, 6] skeins badlands

Size L/11/8mm cabled Tunisian hook or size needed to obtain gauge

Sizes H/8/5mm and K/101/2/6.5mm crochet hooks

Tapestry needle

Safety pin

Stitch markers

GAUGE: 16 sts = 5 inches; 4 rows = 4 inches

Take time to check gauge.

PATTERN NOTES

Before beginning every forward row, give firm tug on loop on hook to tighten up first stitch. You may still find this edge is looser than the left edge of the work. In this design, this affects the right back armhole, which will be tightened up in Finishing.

Work all returns by working loops off hook (see Special Stitches) unless otherwise stated.

Always work last stitch of row under 2 loops, front and back vertical bars of last stitch.

The gauge will be looser until several rows are worked, then true gauge is reached.

Make all starting chains with size H hook to keep edge firm.

Join with slip stitch as indicated unless otherwise stated.

SPECIAL STITCHES

Work loops off hook (work lps off hook): Yo, pull through 1 lp on hook, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across. Last lp on hook counts as first st of next row.

 

 

Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS): Insert hook from front to back between front and back vertical bars (see illustration), yo, pull lp through.

 

 

Tunisian Knit Slip Stitch (TKSS): Insert hook from front to back between front and back vertical bars, pull lp through st and through lp on hook. By inserting hook as in TKS, finished edge matches rest of fabric.

Decrease (dec): Dec are made in step B on this pattern, when working dec, work rem of row as you normally would:

Dec 1 at end of row: Yo, pull through 3 lps on hook.

Dec 1 at beg of row: Yo, pull through first 2 lps on hook. This method of dec is preferred because it leaves an outside edge that will not be visible when working Border.

Increase (inc): Insert hook under right leg of next st, pull up lp (inc), TKS in same st.

This method of increasing is preferred because it leaves no hole in fabric. It can take a few tries to get the hang of it, but is well worth it. When you have finished this sequence, you will still have 1 bar visible from working st. Do not be tempted to work into it, but go to next st.

Tunisian Knit Puff Stitch (TKPS): [Yo, insert hook as in TKS, pull up lp] 4 times, yo, pull through all lps on hook. For best results, work loosely.

VEST

Back

Row 1: With size K hook, ch 52 [60, 66, 72, 78, 84], change to L Tunisian hook; holding back all lps on hook, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yo, pull up lp, [insert hook in next ch, yo, pull up lp] across (52 [60, 66, 12, 78, 84] lps on hook); return (see Pattern Notes).

Row 2: TKS (see Special Stitches) across; return row.

Rows 3-37: Rep row 2.

Armhole Shaping

Row 1:

A. TKSS (see Special Stitches) in each of first 0 [2, 2, 3, 5, 5] sts, TKS across to last 3 [5, 5, 6, 8, 8] sts, TKS, leaving rem 0 [2, 3, 3, 5, 5] sts unworked;

B. dec 1 at beg of row (see Special Stitches), [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with dec 1 at end of row (see Special Stitches). (50 [54, 60, 64, 6, 72] sts)

Rows 2 & 3 [2 & 3, 2-5, 2-5, 2-5, 2-6]: TKS across (48 [52, 56, 58, 60, 66] lps on hook at end of last row); return with dec 1 at beg and end of row.

Rows 4-32 [4-34, 6-36, 6-38, 6-40, 7-44]: TKS across (48 [50, 54, 58, 60, 64] lps on hook); return.

Shoulder & Neck Shaping

Getting started: Place marker in 14th [16th, 15th, 17th, 16th, 18th] st.

Right Shoulder

Row 1 (short row): TKS in each of first 13 [15, 14, 16, 15, 17] sts, leaving rem sts unworked; return, leaving last 4 [4, 4, 5, 4, 5] lps on hook.

Row 2 (short row): TKS in each of next 9 [11, 10, 11, 11, 12] sts; return, leaving rem 6 [8, 7, 9, 8, 9] lps on hook.

Row 3: TKS in each of next 5 [7, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts; return.

Row 4 (short row): TKSS in each of first 13 [15, 14, 16, 15, 17] sts, TKSS in end of each of next 3 shoulder rows, continue working TKSS across neck to marker, TKSS in marked st, TKS in each of next 6 [8, 7, 8, 8] sts; return 6, [8, 7, 8, 8, 8] times.

Row 5: TKS in next 9 [11, 10, 11, 11, 12] sts (10 [12, 11, 72, 72, 13] lps on hook); return.

Row 6: TKS in 10 [12, 11, 12, 12, 13] sts of row 5, TKS in 4 [4, 4, 5, 4, 4] unworked sts of row 4 (14 [16, 15, 17, 16, 18] sts on hook); return. Fasten off.

Right Front

Getting started: Join at Back bottom corner, right side by pulling yarn under 2 lps of st at bottom edge. Working into back lp only (see Stitch Guide).

Row 1: Pull up lp in each of next 4 sts, sk next st, *pull up lp in each of next 5 sts, sk next st, rep from * 5 times, pull up lp in last st (31 lps on hook); return.

Row 2: TKS across; return.

Size Small Only

Row 3: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, inc (see Special Stitches), work last st (32 lps on hook); return.

Row 4: TKS across; return with dec 1 at end of row. (31 sts)

Size Medium Only

Row [3]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at end of row. ([30] sts)

Row [4]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, inc 1, work last st ([31] lps on hook); return.

Row [5]: Rep row 3.

Row [6]: TKS across; return.

Size Large Only

Rows [3-5]: TKS across; return row.

Row [6]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, inc, work last st; return with dec 1 at end of row. ([31] sts)

Row [7]: TKS across; return row.

Row [8]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at end of row. ([30] sts)

Size X-Large Only

Rows [3 & 4]: TKS across; return.

Row [5]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, inc, work last st (32 lps on hook); return.

Rows [6 & 7]: TKS across; return.

Row [8]: Rep row [5]. (33 sts)

Row [9]: TKS across; return.

Row [10]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at end of row. (32 sts)

Size 2X-Large Only

Row [3]: TKS across; return.

Row [4]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, inc, work last st (32 lps on hook); return.

Row [5]: TKS across; return.

Rows [6-11]: [Rep rows 3-5 consecutively] twice. (34 sts at end of last row)

Row [12]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, inc, work last st (33 lps on hook); return row.

Size 3X-Large Only

Row [3]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, inc, work last st (32 lps on hook); return row.

Rows [4 & 5]: TKS across; return.

Rows [6-12]: [Rep rows 3-5 consecutively] 3 times, ending last rep with row 3. (35 sts at end of last row)

Row [13]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at end of row. (34 sts)

Row [14]: TKS across; return.

All Sizes

Armhole Shaping

Getting started: Place lp on safety pin. With separate strand, join (see Pattern Notes) at end of row 4 [6, 8, 10, 12, 14], Ch 22 [26, 28, 27, 29, 32], Fasten off.

Row 1: Place lp on hook from safety pin; TKS in each st across row 4 [6, 8, 10, 12, 14] and in each added ch (53 [56, 58, 59, 62, 66] lps on hook); return.

Size Small Only

Row 2: TKS across; return.

Row 3: TKS across; return with dec 1 at end of. (52 sts)

Row 4: TKS across; return.

Row 5: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, inc, work last st (53 lps on hook); return.

Row 6: Rep row 3. (52 sts)

Row 7: TKS across; return row.

Size Medium Only

Row [2]: TKS across; return row with dec 1 at end of row. (55 sts)

Row [3]: TKS across; return.

Row [4]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, inc, work last st (56 lps on hook); return.

Row [5]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at end of row. (55 sts)

Rows [6 & 7]: TKS across; return.

Rows [8 & 9]: Rep rows 5 and 6. (54 sts at end of last row)

Size Large Only

Rows [2 & 3]: TKS across; return.

Row [4]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at end of row. (57 sts)

Row [5]: TKS across; return.

Row [6]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, inc, work last st ([58] lps on hook); return.

Row [7]: Rep row [4].

Rows [8 & 9]: TKS across; return.

Rows [10 & 11]: Rep rows [7] and [8], (56 sts at end of last row)

Sizes X-Large & 2X-Large Only

Rows [2]: TKS across; return.

Row [3]: TKS across; return row with dec 1 at end of row. ([58,62] sts at end of last row)

Rows [4 & 5]: TKS across; return.

Row [6]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, inc, work last st ([58,61] lps on hook); return.

Rows [7 & 8]: TKS across; return.

Row [9]: Rep row 3. ([57, 61]) sts)

Rows [10 & 11]: TKS across; return.

Row [12]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, leave last 2 sts unworked; return with dec 1 at end of row. ([54,57] sts)

Row [13]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, leave last 2 sts unworked; return. ([52, 55] sts)

Size 3X-Large Only

Row [2]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at end of row. ([65])

Rows [3 & 4]: TKS across; return.

Row [5]: Rep row [2], (64 sts)

Row [6]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, inc, work last st ([65] lps on hook); return.

Row [7]: TKS across; return.

Row [8]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at end of row. ([64] sts)

Rows [9 & 10]: TKS across; return.

Rows [11 & 12]: Rep row [8], ([62] sts at end of last row)

Row [13]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, leave last 2 sts unworked ([60] lps on hook); return.

Curved Panel

Sizes Small, Medium, X-Large, 2X-Large & 3X-Large Only

Row 8 [10,14,14,14]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, leave last 2 sts unworked. (50 [52, 50, 53, 59] lps on hook); return.

Size Large Only

Row [12]: TKS in each st across to last 4 sts, leave last 4 sts unworked ([52] lps on hook); return.

All Sizes

Row 9 [11,13,15,15,15]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, leave last 2 sts unworked (47 [49, 49, 47, 50, 56] lps on hook); return with dec 1 at end of row.

Row 10 [12,14,16,16,16]: TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, leave last 2 sts unworked (45 [47, 47, 45, 48, 54] lps on hook); return with dec 1 at end of row.

Rows 11-14 [13-16, 15-18, 17-20, 17-20, 17-20]: [Rep last 2 rows] twice. (35 [37, 37, 35, 38, 44] sts at end of last row)

Rows 15-17 [17-19, 19-21, 21-23, 21-23, 21-23]: Rep row 9 [11, 13, 15, 15, 15]. (26 [28, 28, 26, 29, 35] sts)

Rows 18-20 [20-22, 22-24, 24-26, 24-26, 24-26]: TKSS in each of first 2 sts, TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, leave last 2 sts unworked (14 [16, 16, 14, 17, 23] lps on hook at end of last row); return. Fasten off.

Left Front

Under Arm

Getting started: Join at base of armhole by pulling yarn under 2 lps of st at armhole edge. Working into back lp only.

Row 1: Pull up lp in each of next 4 sts, sk next st, [pull up lp in each of next 5 sts, sk next st] 6 times, pull up lp in last st. (31 lps on hook); return.

Row 2: TKS across; return.

Size Small Only

Row 3: Inc, TKS in each st across (32 lps on hook); return.

Row 4: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row, ch 23. (31 sts)

Size Medium Only

Row [3]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row. ([30] sts)

Row [4]: Inc, TKS across ([31] lps on hook); return.

Row [5]: Rep row [3], ([30]sts)

Row [6]: TKS across; return, ch 27.

Size Large Only

Rows [3-5]: TKS across; return.

Row [6]: Inc, TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row.

Row [7]: TKS across; return.

Row [8]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row, ch 29.

Size X-Large Only

Rows [3 & 4]: TKS across; return.

Row [5]: Inc, TKS across (32 lps on hook); return.

Rows [6 & 7]: TKS across; return.

Row [8]: Rep row 5. ([33] sts)

Row [9]: TKS across; return.

Row [10]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row, ch 28. (32 sts)

Size 2X-Large Only

Row [3]: TKS across; return.

Row [4]: Inc, TKS across ([32] lps on hook); return.

Row [5]: Rep row [3].

Rows [6-11]: [Rep rows 3-5 consecutively] twice. ([34] sts at end of last row)

Row [12]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row, ch 30. ([33] sts)

Size 3X-Large Only

Row [3]: Inc 1, TKS across ([32] lps on hook); return.

Rows [4 & 5]: TKS across; return.

Rows [6-12]: [Rep rows 3-5 consecutively] 3 times, ending last rep with row 3. ([35] sts)

Row [13]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row. ([34] sts)

Row [14]: TKS across; return, ch 33.

All Sizes

Armhole Shaping

Row 1: Pull up Ip in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 20 [24, 26, 25, 27, 30] chs, TKS in each st of row 4 [6, 8, 10, 12, 14] (53 [56, 58, 59, 62, 66] lps on hook); return.

Size Small Only

Rows 2: TKS across; return.

Row 3: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row. (52 sts)

Row 4: TKS across; return.

Row 5: Inc, TKS across (53 lps on hook); return.

Row 6: Rep row 3. (52 sts)

Row 7: TKS across; return.

Size Medium Only

Row [2]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row. ([55] sts)

Row [3]: TKS across; return.

Row [4]: Inc, TKS across ([56] lps on hook); return.

Row [5]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row. ([55] sts)

Rows [6 & 7]: TKS across; return.

Rows [8 & 9]: Rep rows [5] and [6], ([54] sts at end of last row)

Size Large Only

Rows [2 & 3]: TKS across; return.

Row [4]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row. ([57] sts)

Row [5]: TKS across; return.

Row [6]: Inc, TKS across ([58] lps on hook); return.

Row [7]: Rep row [4].

Rows [8 & 9]: TKS across; return.

Rows [10 & 11]: Rep rows [4] and [5], ([56]sts)

Sizes X-Large & 2X-Large Only

Row [2]: TKS across; return.

Row [3]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row. ([58, 62] sts)

Rows [4 & 5]: TKS across; return.

Row [6]: Inc, TKS across ([59, 63] lps on hook); return with dec 1 at beg of row. ([58, 62] sts)

Rows [7 & 8]: TKS across; return.

Row [9]: Rep row [3]. ([57, 61]sts)

Rows [10 & 11]: TKS across; return.

Row [12]: TKSS in each of first 2 sts, TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row. ([54, 57] sts)

Row [13]: TKSS in each of first 2 sts, TKS across ([52,55] lps on hook); return.

Size 3X-Large Only

Row [2]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row. ([65] sts)

Rows [3 & 4]: TKS across; return.

Row [5]: Rep row [2], ([64]sts)

Row [6]: Inc, TKS across ([65] lps on hook); return.

Row [7]: TKS across; return.

Row [8]: TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row. ([64] sts)

Rows [9 & 10]: TKS across; return.

Row [11]: Rep row [8], ([63]sts)

Rows [12]: TKS across.

Row [13]: TKSS in each of first 2 sts, TKS across ([61] Ips on hook); return.

Curved Panel

Row 8 [10,12,14,14,14]: TKSS in each of first 2 [2, 4, 2, 2, 2] sts, TKS across (50 [52, 50, 53, 59] lps on hook); return.

Row 9 [11, 13, 15, 15, 15]: TKSS in each of first 2 sts, TKS across; return with dec 1 at beg of row, work lps off hook. (47 [49, 49, 47, 50, 56] sts)

Row 10 [12, 14, 16, 16,16]: TKSS in each of first 2 sts, TKS across (45 [47, 47, 45, 48, 54] lps on hook); return.

Rows 11-14 [13-16, 15-18, 17-20, 17-20, 17-20]: [Rep last 2 rows alternately] twice. (35 [37,37, 35, 38, 44] sts at end of last row)

Rows 15-17 [17-19, 19-21, 21-23, 21-23, 21-23]: Rep row 9 [11, 13, 15, 15, 15]. (26 [28, 28, 26, 29, 35] sts at end of last row)

Rows 18-20 [20-22, 22-24, 24-26, 24-26, 24-26]: TKSS in each of first 2 sts, TKS in each st across to last 2 sts, leave last 2 sts unworked (14 [16, 16, 14, 17, 23] lps on hook); return. Fasten off.

Tunisian Puff Border

Getting started: Look closely at the top of the Right Front. The top edge will be seamed to the Back shoulder during Finishing. Join now atthe top edge of the Right Front, pulling yarn through top of the first st. This row will be worked into all the sts of Right Front, then bottom of Back, then all sts of Left Front. To make this as invisible as possible, here is how to pick up the sts on Right Front:

Remember we left 2 sts unworked at the beg of rows. You will see tops of those 2 unworked sts, and just below that you will see 2 legs of TKS. Insert your hook between these 2 legs to pick up these sts. If you do this carefully, your st count will be correct.

When you reach last row of Front, you will work into each st in that row as you normally work into TKS. When you reach lower section of rounded edge, insert your hook under 2 lps atthe outside edge (these will not look like TKS sts). Total picked up around right front: 67 [73, 79, 83, 88, 92] sts.

On the Back, insert hook as in TKS in each of 52 [60, 66, 72, 78, 84] sts, working over the foundation row. Work Left Front in the same way as Right Front.

Row 1: TKS as instructed above (186 [206, 224, 238, 254, 268] lps on hook), return.

Row 2: [TKS in each of next 3 sts, TKPS (see Special Stitches) in next st] across, ending with TKS in each rem st across; return.

Row 3: TKS across; return.

Row 4: [TKS in next 5 sts, TKPS in next st] across, TKS each rem st across; return.

Row 5: TKS across; return.

Sizes X-Large, 2X-Large, 3X-Large Only

Row [6]: TKS in each of next 2 sts, [TKPS in next st, TKS in each of next 5 sts] across, TKS in each rem st across; return.

Row [7]: TKS across; return.

Size 3X-Large Only

Rows [8 & 9]: Rep rows 4 and 5.

All Sizes

Fasten off.

Finishing

To uncurl edges, wet them thoroughly, then pin flat and let dry.

Sew shoulder seams, easing in any extra fabric on back shoulders.

Use size H hook, adjusting size of sts so edge lies flat. (They can be tighter than you think!)

Work sc edging as follows: Join at neck edge of shoulder seam on Left Front, ch 1, inserting hook as in TKS, work sc in each st along Left Front, bottom of Back, Right Front, back neckline, join in beg sc. Fasten off.

Right armhole: Join at shoulder seam, ch 1, evenly sp sc around armhole, inserting hook as in TKS on Right Front until shaping rows, then working into sides of sts for rem of armhole, join in beg sc. Fasten off.

Left armhole: Join at shoulder seam of armhole, ch 1, evenly sp sc around armhole, inserting hook in sides of sts on Back, and on shaping rows of Left Front, inserting hook as in TKS for rem of Left Front, join in beg sc. Fasten off.

Steam edges to eliminate any rem curl.