Swing Jacket

Swing Jacket



Mary Anne Oger has created this sideways machine-knit Swing Jacket using a technique called plating . She chose two different weights of yarns, Whisper Lace and Flax, from Universal Yarn’s Fibra Natura line to create this amazing effect. This highly versatile jacket can be casual or dressy-it’s up to you!

SIZES: Jacket is sized to fit Women’s X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large).

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)"

Length 21 (22, 23, 24, 25)"

Upper Arm 15 (151/2, 16, 161/2, 17)"

MATERIALS: 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) 50 g (137 yd) skeins Fibranatura / Universal Yarn Flax (100% Linen) color #08 Purple (MC)

4 (4, 5, 5, 5) 50 g (440 yd) balls Fibranatura / Universal Yarn Whisper Lace (70% wool, 30% silk) color #204 Cloudy Morning (CC)

(5) 7/8" diameter buttons

MACHINE: 6.5 mm, 150 needles (Silver Reed LK150 was used.)

GAUGE: T6, 20 sts x 26 rows = 4" in Plated Stockinette st

TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE.

DESIGNER NOTES

Sideways-knit jacket with big, short-rowed gores from hem to under bust. Back and fronts are knit from side seam to center and to side seam. Shoulders are then seamed and sleeves are knit down from rehung stitches. Stockinette band with every other needle backing underside with chain stitch edges for neckband, cuffs, and front bands. Easy tubular button loops sewn on right side form simple closures for buttons sewn on left side. Hem is finished with slip cord edging attached as it is knit.

Finished weight, 2nd size, 550g.

Read through entire pattern and make a cheat sheet for your size before beginning because of different shaping at each side.

When one number only, applies to all sizes.

Use 2-prong tool to increase or decrease.

For sideways knit, because rows make the width of the garment, choose size larger than normal because garment will lengthen and narrow when hung/worn.

To lengthen, add 5 sts per inch to right edge (hem).

PLATED STOCKINETTE

Place MC in 2nd (back) feeder and CC in the 1st (front) feeder. The yarn in the second feeder shows mainly on the purl side and the yarn in the front feeder lays on the knit side of the fabric. Note: On different machines, this may vary and be reversed.

SHORT-ROWED GORE

Carriage at hem side. Set to hold. Bring all to hold. Remove row counter. At carriage side, return 6 to UWP, KWK, 8X. Reverse this: hold last 6 sts, KWK, 7X to all but 6 sts back in hold. This adds 30 rows to hemline. Replace row counter. K1R over all sts and continue.

MACHINE KNITTING ABBREVIATIONS

CC contrast color

COL (R) carriage on left (right)

EON every other needle

HP holding position

K1R knit one row

KWK knit, wrap, knit

MC main color n, n’s needle, needles

RC row counter

T# tension (stitch dial number)

UWP upper working position

WY waste yarn X times

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK

The right edge is the bottom of the garment. The left edge is shoulder/top of sleeve seam. 100 (105, 110, 115, 120) n’s to work, centered on needle bed. Cast on WY, knit several rows. Set to hold. CAR. Place 37 (39, 41, 43, 45) n’s at left side to hold (this will be one half of sleeve later). With ravel cord, knit 1 row on remaining 63 (66, 69, 72, 75) n’s (side seam sts) and place these in hold. Return sleeve sts to UWP, ravel cord, K1R. Cancel hold. RC000, CAR, MC/CC, knit in Plated Stockinette as in note throughout. K6 (6, 7, 7, 9)R. At left, inc 1 st for shoulder, K5 (6, 7, 8, 8)R, 5X to 105 (110, 115, 120, 125) n’s in work. Knit to RC032 (036, 042, 046, 050), at left edge, hang yarn mark for edge of neck. While at the same time, at RC016 (018, 022, 024, 026) at right side, make Short-Rowed Gore (see notes above) and repeat at RC032 (036, 044, 048, 52). At RC032 (036, 042, 046, 050), at left, shape neck as foll: dec 2 sts, K2R, 2X; 1 st, 1X. Knit to RC052 (058, 066, 072, 078). Place yarn marks at each side for center back. RC000, reverse shaping from here to knit other half of back as foll: At RC014 (016, 018, 020, 022), at left, inc 1 st, K2R; 2 sts, K2R, 2X. Hang YM at RC020 (022, 024, 026, 028) for edge of neck.

Shape Shoulder

At left, begin shoulder shaping at RC026 (028, 031, 033, 037) as foll: dec 1 st, K5 (6, 7, 8, 8)R, 5X. While at the same time, at right, at RC020 (022, 022, 024, 026), make Short-Rowed Gore and repeat at RC036 (040, 044, 048, 052). Knit to RC052 (058, 066, 072, 078) side seam. Remove 63 (66, 69, 72, 75) sts at right on WY. Remove remaining 37 (39, 41, 43, 45) sts for half of top of sleeve on WY.

FRONTS

Knit as for Back, making gores at right to RC032 (036, 042, 046, 050). Hang yarn mark for end of shoulder. At left, shape neck as foil: dec 3 sts, K2R, 2X; 2 sts, K2R, 2X; 1 st, 1X. Knit to RC052 (058, 066, 072, 078).

Center Front

WY, K1 OR. Ravel cord, K1R. WY, K10R. Ravel cord, K1R. RC000, continue to knit other side of front. At left, at RC012 (014, 016, 018, 020) inc 1 st, K2R; 2 sts, K2R, 2X; 3 sts, K2R, 2X. Hang yarn marks at RC020 (022, 024, 026, 028) for edge of neck.

Shape Shoulder

At left, begin shoulder shaping at RC026 (028, 031, 033, 037); dec 1 st, K5 (6, 7, 8, 8)R, 5X; while at the same time, at right, at RC020 (022, 022, 024, 026) make short-rowed gores and repeat at RC036 (040, 044, 048, 052). Knit to RC052 (058, 066, 072, 078) side seam. Remove 63 (66, 69, 72, 75) sts at right on WY. Remove remaining 37 (39, 41, 43, 45) sts for half of top of sleeve on WY.

Join Shoulder/Sleeve

Hold up Back to machine to measure n’s required, stretching slightly. Hang Back with RS facing, picking up half outside edge stitch. Hang corresponding Front, placing right sides together. Manually knit one tight row to make shoulder seam. Manually knit loose row and chain cast off.

SLEEVE

37 (39, 41, 43, 45) n’s each side of 0 to work. Pick up Sleeve sts from WY, centering shoulder seam at 0. RC000. MC, T6, K4R.

Shape Sleeve

At each side, dec 1 st, K4R, 10X; 1 st, K9R, 7X to 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) sts each side of 0. Knit to RC104, end of sleeve. Remove on WY.

Method for Bands

Have uneven number of n's in work, arrange every other needle in work, cast on waste yarn and ravel cord. CAL. MC/CC, T3, K5R. Bring all needles to work. T9. K1R. Remove yarn from feeder. Place carriage at right. Bring needles out carefully, leaving stitches in hooks. With both strands, chain across evenly behind work. Push back on needle butts to pull open stitches through chain. RC000. T5.5, K5R. Pick up sinker loops of first row of MC onto every other needle. Remove ravel cord. T9, K1R. Remove on WY or garter bar.

Sleeve Cuff

18 (19, 20, 22, 23) n's each side of 0. Add extra needle at left. Make band as above. On same n’s, hang sleeve sts right side facing, gathering evenly. Bring n’s out, pushing sts behind latches. MC/CC, chain across loosely in front of work. Turn cuff and rehang, sts in hooks. Push back on needle butts to pull through. T9, K1R. Chain cast off.

Neckband

34 (36, 38, 40, 42) n’s each side of 0. Make band as above. Hang neckline right side facing, center back at 0, hanging edge evenly. Bring n’s out. MC, chain across n’s. Turn band and hang. Pull open sts through. Manually knit loose row and chain cast off.

Front Bands

Take the number of sts from center front [94 (99, 104, 109, 125) sts], reduce by 10%, and add 5 sts for neckband. 89 (95, 99, 103, 117) n’s each side of 0. Make band as described above (Method for Bands). Right side facing, hang Front sts from WY, gathering evenly to fit. Bring n’s out. MC/CC, chain across. Turn band and attach as for neckband.

Button Loops

Button loops are made with slip cord (2 passes of carriage make 1 row of knit, but counts as 2 rows). 4 n’s. MC/CC, e-wrap on. Set to slip to right, knit to left. T4, K40R. Transfer outer sts in. Pull yarn tail through each st to tie off, leaving approx 6" tail. Adjust length for different size buttons. Make 5. Use tails to hand stitch loops in place on right side as shown. Sew buttons opposite button loops. Tip: Use a small backing button on the wrong side to stabilize button on the right side.

Join Side Seams

For side seams, rehang open sts, placing right sides together. Pull one set through. Manually knit very loose row and chain off. Seam underarm with mattress stitch.

Finish Lower Edge

Slip cord as for button loops, but attach as you knit. Cast on 4 n’s as above. T6. CAR. Knit side of garment facing you, hang half stitch from bottom edge on left needle, starting at outside edge of front band. K2R. Pick up half loop 4X in 7 rows of garment or as tension allows. Do not tighten the lower edge. Continue to other side. Cast off. Weave in all ends, drawing most into the bands.