Knitting for women Stormy Weather Tunic

Stormy Weather Tunic

Stormy Weather Tunic



Just when you think you understand placement of colors in self-striping and printed yarns, Mary Anne Oger makes you think again and helps you plan the perfect color placement using these amazing yarns. For her hooded Stormy Weather Tunic in Linen Concerto, the front zipper placket is an ideal visual and practical accent.

SIZES: Women’s XS (S, M, L, IX)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS: Bust 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)"

Length 21 (22, 23, 24, 25)"

Upper Arm 15% (16,17,18, 181/2)"

MATERIALS: 15 (16, 17, 18, 20) (50g; 101yd) balls Plymouth Yarn Linen Concerto (48% rayon, 42% linen, 10% cotton) color #73 indigo

7" zipper

Sewing machine (optional)

3-prong tool to increase/decrease

MACHINE: 6.5mm, 150 needles (Silver Reed LK150 was used)

GAUGE: 20 sts x 28 rows = 4" in St st using T4.5 TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE.

DESIGNER NOTES: Finished weight, second size, 640g.

Sideways-knit pullover hoodie. Because rows make the width of the garment, choose size larger than normal, as garment will lengthen and narrow when hung/worn.

Read through entire pattern and make a cheat sheet for your size before beginning because of different shaping at each side.

When one number only, applies to all sizes.

Back and front are started on waste and knit from center to side seam, turned and rehung at center, and knit to other side seam to allow for color matching. Align at same needles on needlebed for easier knitting.

Shoulders are then seamed and sleeves are knit down from rehung stitches.

7" non-separating zipper in front neckline is encased with vertical knit placket, hand or machine stitched in place on outside.

Hem and sleeves are finished with rehung chained edging.

STITCH GLOSSARY

Short Row for A-Line

Carriage at bottom edge (hem) side. Set Russel Levers to HP. Bring all needles to hold. Remove row counter. At carriage side, return 50 n’s to UWP, KWK. Replace row counter. Cancel Russel Levers HP. K1R over all and continue.

Slip cord

(2 passes of carriage make 1 row of knit, but counts as 2 rows). 3 n’s. MC, e-wrap on. Set to slip to right (left side lever forward to circle, right side lever back at triangle), knit to left.

MACHINE KNITTING ABBREVIATIONS

COL (R) - carriage on left (right)

EON - every other needle

HP - holding position

K1R - knit one row

KWK - knit, wrap, knit

MC - main color

n, n’s - needle, needles

RC - row counter

T# - tension (stitch dial number)

UWP - upper working position

WY - waste yarn

X - times

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK

Right edge is bottom of garment; left edge is neckline and then shoulder seam.

With WY, cast on 101 (105, 111, 115, 121) n’s. Knit several rows ending COR. Reset RC000, change to MC. Work even, making Short Row for A-line at RC012 (014, 014, 016, 016) and again at RC036 (040, 044, 048, 052).

AT SAME TIME, shape back neck:

At RC014 (016, 018, 020, 022): on left, inc 1 st, K2R; inc 2 sts, K2R, 2X. At RC020 (022, 024, 026, 028): hang YM for edge of neck.

Shoulder Shaping

At RC029 (030, 033, 034, 034), on left, dec 1 st, K8 (8, 7, 7, 7)R, 5 (6, 7, 8, 9)X. Knit to RC056 (064, 070, 078, 084), side seam. For side slit, remove 20 sts at right on WY for slit opening. Remove next 36 (37, 40, 41, 44) sts at right on WY.

Shape Underarm

Continue on remaining sts and at right, dec 1 st, K2R, 7X. Knit to RC070 (078, 084, 092, 098). Remove remaining 38 (40, 42, 44, 46) sts for half of top of sleeve on WY. Turn piece and rehang cast-on side with hem at left and purl side facing, and knit other half of Back, reversing shaping, matching color sequence with first side.

FRONT

Right edge is bottom of garment; left edge is neckline

With WY, cast on 94 (98, 104, 108, 114) n’s. Knit several rows ending COR. Reset RC000, change to MC. Place first 30 n’s from left edge to hold for zipper opening. Russel Levers to hold. Begin with same color sequence as for center back. E-wrap the 30 n’s that are held and leave in HP. Thread up MC so it begins knitting immediately after the e-wrapped n’s. K1R. Cancel hold and K1R over all. Knit to RC008 (010, 012, 014, 016).

Neck Shaping

Inc 1 st, K2R, 2X; inc 2 sts, K2R, 2X; inc 3 sts, K2R, 2X.

AT SAME TIME, at right, at RC012 (014, 014, 016, 016), make Short Row for A-line and again At RC036 (040, 044, 048, 052). Hang YM at RC020 (022, 024, 026, 028) for edge of neck. Shoulder Shaping At RC029 (030, 033, 034, 034), at left dec 1 st, K8 (8, 7, 7, 7)R, 5 (6, 7, 8, 9)X. Knit to RC056 (064, 070, 078, 084), side seam. For side slit, remove 20 sts at right for slit opening on WY. Remove 36 (37, 40, 41, 44) sts at right on WY. Shape Underarm Continue on remaining sts and at right, dec 1 st, K2R, 7X. Knit to RC070 (078, 084, 092, 098). Remove remaining 38 (40, 42, 44, 46) sts for half of top of sleeve on WY. Turn piece and rehang cast-on side with hem at left and purl side facing. RCOOO. CAL, matching color sequence, K1R. Bring the 30 n’s at right for zipper opening to work. E-wrap on. Knit this half of Front reversing shaping, matching color sequence with first side.

Join shoulder/sleeve seam

Hold up to machine to measure n'srequired, stretching slightly. Hang one side, right side facing, picking up half outside edge stitch. Hang corresponding piece, putting right sides together. Manually knit one tight row to make seam. Manually knit loose row and chain cast off.

SLEEVES

38 (40, 42, 44, 46) n’s each side of 0 to work. Hang sleeve sts from WY, centering 2 sts for shoulder seam at 0. RC000. With MC, K3R. At each side, dec 1 st, K3R, 5X; dec 1 st, K6 (6, 6, 5, 5)R, 5X; dec 1 st, K6R, 10X to 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts each side of 0. Knit to RC112 (112, 108, 106, 104), end of sleeve.

Edging: T9, K1R. Do not break yarn. Chain cast off stitches to last one. Hold on tool. Turn piece and rehang remaining stitch at opposite end. Hang chain, both sides across same needles. T5, K1R. T9, K1R. Break yarn and chain cast off. Repeat for second sleeve.

FINISHING

Graft open sts of side seams.

Finish side slit opening: 37 n’s in work. Rehang open sts purl side facing, gathering 4 sts evenly spaced and doubling sts at center/top of slit. T9, K1R. Do not break yarn. Chain off stitches to last one. Hold on tool. Turn piece and rehang chain, both sides. T5, K1R. T9, K1R. Break yarn and chain off. Seam underarm with mattress stitch.

Finish bottom edge: Hang selvage, half outside edge of stitch, purl side facing. T5, K1R. T9, K1R. Do not break yarn. Chain off stitches to last one. Hold on tool. Turn piece and rehang chain, both sides. T5, K1R. T9, K1R. Break yarn and chain off.

HOOD

With WY, cast on 57-0-57 n’s. Knit several rows. Drop 5th stitch from each side and put empty needle out of work. This will be fold line for casing. Knit a few more rows. Ravel cord, K1R. CAL. RC000. With MC, K1R.

Shape back neck

Reverse short-rowing: Hold all left side and 1-35 right of 0. KWK. Return 5 sts to UWP, KWK; 2 sts, KWK, 5X.

AT SAME TIME, at RC005, make eyelet for drawstring open, by moving 7th stitch from edge to 6th needle, leave empty needle in work. At RC014. Place all in hold. Break yarn and replace CAL. Reset RC001. Hold all right side and 1-35 left of 0 to HP. Matching color sequence of yarn, KWK. Return 5 sts to UWP, KWK; 2 sts, KWK, 5X.

AT SAME TIME, at RC005, make eyelet as for other side. At RC014, cancel hold and knit over all to RC081.

Shape top of hood

Short-rowing: CAR. Hold left half and #1 right of 0. KWK. Hold 2 sts, KWK, 3X; hold 3 sts, KWK, 4X. Break yarn. Place all in HP. Return all sts right of 0 to UWP. Reset RC081. Place CAL. Matching color sequence, K1R and shape this side in reverse to RC098. Cancel hold and K1R over all. Remove each half on separate WY. Fold in half and graft seam for top of hood.

Attach Hood

43 (44, 46, 48, 50) n’s each side of 0. Wrong side facing, hang garment neckline. Hang cast-on edge/bottom of hood, right side facing. At edge of hood, fold casing to inside of hood and hang those sts first. Put hood sts in hooks and garment edge behind latches. Pull through. Manually knit loose row. Chain cast off. The cast-off will be on the outside of the garment, under the hood when hood is down.

Drawstring

Make slip cord, 3 n’s, T4, K450R. Transfer outer sts in. Pull tail of yarn through each to tie off. Hand or machine stitch casing to inside of hood. Insert cord in casing and knot ends.

Front Placket

10-0-10 n’s. MC, chain across needles. T4, K1R. Break yarn. Bring all to hold. Return 2 at center to work. K1R. Always wrapping last n in work at carriage side, return 1, K1R, 2X; return 2, K1R, 2X. Repeat to RC015, all n back in work. Cast off 2 sts each side at center by moving #1 to #2. Place opposite side in hold. Matching color on each side, knit to RC062. Remove to WY. Repeat for other side. Block and steam.

Sew Zipper

Pin zipper in place on outside of front. Sew. Place Placket on top of zipper so only teeth of zipper are showing. Adjust length of sides of placket to align with neckline by unravelling a few rows if necessary and backstitch cast off the open sts. Sew around zipper through all layers (garment front/zipper tape and Placket) and around outer edge of placket. Darn in all ends.